Kalimantan, Warung Katupat Kaganangan and Warung Novi

Kalimantan, Warung Katupat Kaganangan and Warung Novi

On our first stop with Kevin Cherkas, we went to Warung Kaganangan, in Kandangan, which is renowned in Kalimantan. This place serves a dish made of a signature smoked fish, simmered in a coconut gravy, served with rice parcels, also well known as ketupat. After filming, I was able to get some inside information that allowed me to serve it my way, at Hujan Locale, during our April 2019 event “A Dinner in Kalimantan”. Next stop was Warung Novi, in Banjarmasin, to try her famous Soto Banjar. At first, this dish was a challenge for Kevin to reinterpret, but in the end, very inspiring as we literally transformed this soup into Xialong Bao’s for our Kalimantan dinner on May 11, 2019, at Som Chai.
Kalimantan, Warung Hj Yuli and H Alan

Kalimantan, Warung Hj Yuli and H Alan

In this episode, Kevin Cherkas and I are searching for intense flavours for our dinner event that happened back on the 11th May in my restaurant Som Chai. This experience also gave me inspiration for some dishes we now serve at Hujan Locale. We started our culinary journey at Warung Hj. Yuli, in Banjarbaru, where fishes are sublimated in a Kalimantan style. Then, we went on to Amutai city, to try the legendary Warung Itik Tanpa Tulang H. Alan. Pak Haji Ali was serving up his signature duck dish, which is deboned duck marinated in soy and a few other spices. He would rub the duck across the grill as if he wanted it to absorb the flavours of the grill which looked like it hadn’t been cleaned since he opened back in 1993!
Babi Guling Bu Mangku

Babi Guling Bu Mangku

Tucked away off the street is Bu Mangku’s, a tiny little warung serving up Bali’s favourite kind of local worker’s breakfast – babi guling.

Babi Guling Bu Mangku

Foreign tourists favourite, “babi guling” is made from piglets whose stomach is filled with herbs and vegetables such as cassava leaves and then roasted while rotating until cooked, marked by changing the color of the skin to brown and crispy.

When I got here at 9:15am, she’d already almost sold out. All that was left were a few remnants of the suckling pig she is famous for. Luckily there was enough for us, so we did get to try a taste anyway.

While I was eating, Bu Mangku is bundling up 100 bungkus (triangular shaped paper takeaway parcels) for delivery that morning.

They are on their way to the airport for staff catering at the canteen there. I find out that she sells up to 300 bungkus – and makes up to 9000 small sates – per day. Shocked, I realize that this humble holy man’s wife is a real culinary entrepreneur, giving new meaning to the term ‘quiet achiever’.

The Balinese can create thriving little businesses like this for much less of an investment and effort than Westerners do. Even high-end restaurants can learn a thing or two from this kind of enterprising side to their main gig. There is definitely something to be said for doing takeaway!

Nyuh Kuning Rd, Singakerta, Ubud, Gianyar, Bali 80571 (view in Google Maps)

BABI GULING GRENCENG

Another great option for lunch is Babi Guling Grenceng (just a few metres up the road from yesterday’s warung tip, Tipat Tahu Grenceng).

A relaxed affair, it’s shoes off at the front steps here, with ‘lesehan’ style seating on rattan floor mats.

The babi guling is good and offers quite a variety of accompaniments to the traditional slow-roasted pork. The paper-lined basket offers up lots of flavours, with young coconut braised in bumbu gede sitting alongside sausage and fried curly intestines (which I quietly pass on). 

Warung Tipat Tahu Grenceng

Warung Tipat Tahu Grenceng

Instead of heading off into the outer reaches of Asia, the last few weeks have been all about discovering some of the hidden secrets of my own island home.

A popular dish

Street-side eating here is all about one thing only – tahu tipat. Originally from East Java but hugely popular here in Bali, tahu tipat consists of freshly made tofu pieces that are pan fried so that they become slightly golden and warm, before being mixed with bean sprouts, lontong (soft rice cakes shaped in plaited banana leaf parcels) and spicy peanut sauce.

Warung Tipat Tahu Grenceng Jl. Imam Bonjol No.304, Pemecutan Klod, Kec. Denpasar Bar., Kota Denpasar, Bali 80119 (view on Google Map)
A big prawn cracker on top is the perfect way to dip and crunch your way through the bowl. Wholesome, spicy and filling, it’s the perfect quick lunch.

I visited this Warung in November 2012. Though they changed their frontage, the recipe, taste and twist remain the same !